If you’ve ever tried installing a bathtub, you know it’s not just grabbing a tub and plopping it into your bathroom—there’s a method to the chaos, and skipping the right tools will turn a weekend project into a month-long headache. As a bathtub supplier, I’ve worked with hundreds of homeowners and contractors who rush this step, only to call us back with leaks, misaligned walls, or tubs that rock so bad you can’t take a shower without feeling like you’re on a boat. Today, I’m breaking down every tool you actually need (no fancy gear that’s only useful for professional plumbers) to get the job done right, and why cutting corners on tools is the fastest way to ruin your investment. Bathtub
First, let’s start with the tools you’ll use to prep the space—because a good bathtub install starts long before you carry the tub into the room. The last thing you want is a mismeasured drain or a wall that’s off by half an inch, so precision is non-negotiable. A heavy-duty tape measure (25 feet minimum, trust me—short ones won’t reach from the drain to the far wall of a standard bathroom) is your base, but pair it with a laser level. I’ve seen people use a $5 bubble level and end up with a tub that’s tilted, causing water to pool at one end. A laser level runs $30 to $50, and it takes 10 minutes to set up, but it ensures your tub is perfectly level on all sides—critical for both water drainage and the integrity of the tub’s frame.
Next, you’ll need a utility knife and a drywall saw. When you’re installing a drop-in or alcove tub, you might need to trim existing drywall or cut access panels for the drain and supply lines. A sharp utility knife (and extra blades—they dull fast) will score drywall cleanly, and a drywall saw lets you make curved cuts if your tub has a curved apron. Pro tip from our team: always add 1/4 inch of extra space around the tub’s edges to account for adhesive and trim, so don’t cut your walls exactly to the tub’s dimensions.
Once the space is prepped, it’s time to move to the tools that will actually secure the tub—this is where mistakes get expensive. If you’re working with a fiberglass, acrylic, or cast iron tub (we supply all three, by the way), you’ll need a drill with a Phillips-head and masonry bit set. Masonry bits are non-negotiable for drilling into concrete or cinder block walls, which most bathroom frames use. A regular wood bit won’t make a hole cleanly, and it can crack the tub’s base if you accidentally drill through to the interior. We recommend a cordless drill with at least 18V power—corded drills are great for heavy lifting, but a cordless one lets you move around the bathroom without tripping over wires, which is a big help when you’re carrying a 50-pound tub section.
For the tub’s base, you have two options: a mortar bed for cast iron tubs, or a foam backer board for acrylic. Either way, you’ll need a bucket trowel and a margin trowel. A bucket trowel is for mixing mortar or adhesive, and a margin trowel lets you spread it evenly without making a mess. If you’re using a foam backer board (super popular for modern acrylic tubs because it’s lightweight), you’ll also need a utility knife to cut the backer board to fit the tub’s underside. And don’t skip the silicone caulk gun—you’ll use it to seal the gap between the tub and the wall, and around the drain. A cheap caulk gun will jam mid-joint, so invest in a $10 heavy-duty one; it’s worth every penny.
Now, the parts that make or break the install: plumbing tools. Even if you’re not a plumber, you need the right tools to connect the drain and supply lines, because leaks here are the most common post-install issue. A pipe wrench (10-inch is ideal for most bathtubs) is for tightening the drain assembly and connecting the supply lines. Pair it with a pair of channel lock pliers (also called water pump pliers) for smaller fittings that need a little more grip. If you’re working with PEX pipes (modern supply lines), you’ll need a PEX cutter—cutting PEX with a utility knife leaves ragged edges that can cause leaks, and a PEX cutter gives a clean, straight cut every time. We’ve seen too many installs where a homeowner used a knife, and within a week, the pipe burst, flooding the bathroom.
Don’t forget about the drain assembly tools. Most bathtub drains have a gasket and a locknut, and you’ll need a drain wrench (or a pair of needle-nose pliers) to tighten them without scratching the tub’s interior. For a clawfoot tub (a classic option we supply), you’ll need a pipe thread sealant—Teflon tape or pipe dope—to seal the threads of the supply lines, so water doesn’t seep out. A lot of people skip Teflon tape, and six months later, they’re dealing with a leaky pipe behind the wall that costs thousands to fix.
Now, the tools you might not think about, but that make the install go smoothly: a pry bar, a rubber mallet, and a level. A 15-inch pry bar is for prying off old drywall, removing the old tub’s drain, and adjusting the tub’s position if it’s slightly off. A rubber mallet is way better than a steel hammer—you can tap the tub into place without denting the acrylic or chipping the cast iron. I’ve seen guys use a steel hammer, and they end up with a 2-inch dent on the tub’s side that the homeowner has to replace a month later. And yes, you’ll need a level more than once: check the tub’s length, width, and the drain, to make sure water flows toward the drain properly.
Wait, let’s talk about safety tools—you can’t skip these, no matter how eager you are to get the tub in. Safety glasses are non-negotiable when drilling or cutting drywall; tiny debris can fly into your eyes and cause injury. Work gloves protect your hands from sharp edges on the tub, pipe fittings, and drywall. If you’re lifting a heavy cast iron tub (which can weigh 100+ pounds), get a pair of lifting straps—they take the pressure off your back and prevent you from dropping the tub. A lot of homeowners try to lift the tub alone, and I’ve had to replace tubs that cracked because someone tried to muscle it into place without proper support.
Now, let’s break this down by tub type, because tools change a little depending on what you’re installing. If you’re doing an alcove tub (the most common, three walls with one open side), you’ll need the tools above, plus a jigsaw if you need to cut a niche for toiletries in the wall behind the tub. For a drop-in tub, you’ll need a router to trim the rim to fit the deck, and a stud finder to locate wall studs for securing the tub’s flanges. For a clawfoot tub, you’ll need a plumbing wrench for the exposed pipes, and shims to level the tub’s legs—shims are small plastic or wood pieces that you slide under the legs to make sure the tub doesn’t rock, and most people forget them, leading to a wobbly tub.
I mentioned earlier that cutting corners on tools is a bad idea, but let’s give a real example: last year, a customer bought a cast iron tub from us, skipped the masonry bit and used a regular wood bit to drill into the concrete wall. The drill bit snapped, flew into his face, and he had to go to the ER. The tub was installed, but three months later, the hole he drilled was uneven, and the tub shifted, causing a leak that destroyed the subfloor. He ended up paying $2,000 to fix the damage, plus the cost of a new drill bit (which was $5) if he’d just bought the right tool in the first place. That’s the kind of mistake we see all the time.
As a bathtub supplier, our job isn’t just to sell you a tub—it’s to help you install it right, so you get years of use without issues. We’ve put together a quick checklist that matches every tool to the tub type, so you don’t have to guess: for acrylic alcove tubs, you’ll need a laser level, cordless drill, PEX cutter, silicone caulk gun, rubber mallet, and shims; for cast iron drop-in tubs, add a mortar trowel and pipe wrench. If you’re not sure which tools you need for your specific tub, reach out to our team—we’re happy to walk you through it, no sales pitch required.
Before we wrap up, let’s go over a few last-minute tips: always rent tools if you only need them once (like a core drill if you’re cutting a new drain hole through concrete) instead of buying them, that saves money. Read the tub’s installation manual before you start—every brand has specific requirements for tools and spacing. And if you’re not comfortable with any part of the install (especially plumbing), it’s worth hiring a professional. A bad install can ruin your new tub, your bathroom, and even your whole house, so don’t risk it.
If you’re ready to buy a bathtub and need help figuring out the right tools for your project, or if you have questions about the install process, our team is here to assist. We supply a wide range of bathtubs for every bathroom size and style, and we’re happy to guide you through the steps to make your installation go smoothly. Reach out to us to discuss your needs and get a custom solution for your bathroom.
Bathroom Cabinet References
- Consumer Product Safety Commission. (2022). Home Improvement Tool Safety Guidelines for Bathroom Renovations.
- National Kitchen & Bath Association. (2023). Bathtub Installation Best Practices and Required Tools.
- International Residential Code. (2022). Plumbing Requirements for Bathroom Fixture Installations.
- Fiberglass Shower and Bathtub Manufacturers Association. (2021). Tool Recommendations for Acrylic Tub Installations.
- Cast Iron Bath Tub Institute. (2022). Installation Standards for Heavy-Duty Bathtub Models.
Hangzhou FJSTONE Industry Ltd.
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